Canon 750d Focus Stacking

1. Focus Stacking With The Canon 5DS R: Canon EOS-1D / 5D / 6D ..
2. Cached
3. Canon 750d Focus Stacking Instructions
4. More Images For Canon 750d Focus Stacking »
5. Images For Canon 750d Focus Stacking
6. Canon EOS 90D: Mit Der Focus-Bracketing / Fokus-Bracketing ..

Canon first introduced the Focus Bracketing feature in the Canon EOS RP mirrorless interchangeable lens camera. The Canon EOS R5 and Canon EOS R6 were next.

What is Canon EOS Focus Bracketing?

What is focus stacking and why is it needed? When your camera is really close to the subject, depth of field will be very shallow. For example, if you are using a 100mm lens, at a distance of 50cm (nearly 10 inches from your subject) with an aperture as small as f/16, the area which is acceptably sharp is just 1.9 cm (about 3/4 of an inch).

1. Buy Canon EOS 750D DSLR Camera (Body Only) (8 GB SD Card + Camera Bag) for Rs.49995 online. Canon EOS 750D DSLR Camera (Body Only) (8 GB SD Card + Camera Bag) at best prices with FREE shipping & cash on delivery. Only Genuine Products. 30 Day Replacement Guarantee.
2. Re: 750d focus issue? In reply to James0065. Feb 21, 2017 James0065.
3. Canon’s Free AutoFocus MicroAdjustment Guidebook. As a quick preface to explain the significance of this, it pays to understand that cameras and lenses are made in bulk, and by a mix of man and machine. As such, and with pretty much everything made in this fashion, there are manufacturing tolerances in the processes.
4. Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ18 Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS4 Canon EOS Rebel T6i Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS STM +4 more Canon EOS Rebel T6i (EOS 750D / Kiss X8i) If you believe there are incorrect tags, please send us this post using our feedback form.

When enabled, the focus bracketing feature instructs the camera to take a series of pictures with the lens' focus distance setting increasing between each image captured until the specified number of images are captured or until infinity focus is reached. The resulting set of images can then be focus stacked during post-processing with the result being an increased depth of field, potentially by a significant amount, while avoiding the softening effects of diffraction caused by very narrow apertures use.

This technique is commonly used in macro photography as the depth of field is typically extremely shallow at very close focus distances. Landscape photographers frequently use this technique to keep entire scenes that include a close foreground subject in focus.

Here are two illustrations:

Keep in mind that the depth of field difference is much more obvious in the full-resolution images.

The Canon Focus Bracketing Settings

There are four settings used to control the focus bracketing feature.

1. Activate Focus Bracketing (Enable/Disable)
2. Input number of shots (2 to 999)
3. Focus increment (1-10)
4. Exposure smoothing (Enable/Disable)

Hopefully, the first option is self-explanatory. The feature is either enabled or disabled.

The number of shots instructs the camera to capture up to the specified number of images. I say 'up to' because the camera stops taking photographs when infinity focus distance is reached and this may only require a small number of images regardless of the number of shots setting. Use this setting to limit the camera to a shorter focus distance range, or set the number very high to ensure that all distances including infinity are covered.

The focus increment setting is definitely the vaguest on this list. This setting deals with the granularity of the focus distance adjustment between each shot with 1 requesting fine increments and 10 requesting wide increments. Specific distance changes are not able to be input and with the depth of field increasing with distance, a non-specific increment value makes sense. Focus brackets always start with the initial focus distance and proceed toward infinity (the ending distance cannot be directly specified). 'The wider the pre-set lens aperture, and the closer the lens is to the subject for the first shot, the finer the focus increments should normally be, and the more Focus Bracketed shots should be dialed-in.'

Exposure smoothing is disabled by default, but when enabled, the camera keeps image brightness consistent through the image set. This feature is primarily useful for compensating for light transmission losses when lenses, especially macro models, are focused at very close distances.

Optional is for the camera to create a new folder on the memory card before the bracketed sequence starts, making it easy to separate a potentially large number of images. Tapping the 'Folder +' icon creates a new folder and subsequent images are saved there. El capitan image download.

Which Lenses are Officially Supported by Focus Bracketing?

Canon engineers have specified that only the lenses listed below are officially compatible with the focus bracketing feature. However, reports exist of additional lenses appearing to be supported by this feature. While it seems safe to say that all RF lenses will be supported, that expectation was not initially confirmed by Canon. We also do not know why official compatibility is limited to this a list of lenses, though the lenses on this list seem like logical choices for use with this feature.

The initial list for the R5 and R6 is significantly expanded:

'We absolutely cannot guarantee proper Focus Bracketing operation when third-party lenses are attached.' [Canon]

Additional Notes

• The camera should be tripod mounted or similarly motionless during focus bracketing capture
• JPEG or RAW file capture is supported
• Only creative zone exposure modes are supported (P, Tv, Av, Fv, or M)
• To ensure consistency, exposure settings, ISO, AWB, and Picture Style settings are locked-in with the first shot regardless of the mode selected
• In M or Av mode, any aperture can be selected, though a relatively narrow aperture such as f/8 or f/11 reduces the number of shots needed
• The lens must be in AF mode for focus bracketing to work, though full-time manual focus can be used after half-pressing the shutter release to begin the sequence capture
• Any subjects that are in motion during the bracketing capture will likely create ghosting in the final image
• Accommodate focus breathing as the lens may magnify the scene differently as the focus distance is adjusted
• Lighting changes during capture may create uneven brightness in the final image
• Proper exposure should be confirmed before initiating a focus bracketing sequence
• Focus bracketing in progress can be canceled the same way it was started, by pressing the shutter release button
• After the last frame, the lens should be focused on or beyond the most distant element that is desired to be in focus. Otherwise, more frames are needed.

Intelligence Built In

'.. Canon engineers have revealed nothing about the calculation process involved in the Focus Bracketing feature. We can infer that the system is factoring-in the lens (and focal length) in use; the actual lens aperture in effect; and the initial sharp focus distance applied by the photographer. In other words, it’s probably safe to assume that the amount of focus deviation at Level 3, from shot-to-shot with a 100mm macro lens, initially focused at its nearest focus distance and with an aperture of f/4, is different than it would be at level 3 with the 16-40mm lens at f/11, pre-focused at 4 or 5 feet away for the first in a series of landscape shots.'

Still, it seems that this process could be further automated. If the camera could be informed of the desired far focus distance, either directly input into the camera or selected via the lens (perhaps make infinity the default), the camera would be able to automatically calculate both the focus increment and the number of shots.

Focus Stacking After Capture

All of the images captured by Focus Bracketing are stored on the memory card. Each set of images can be used to simply select the single best-focused option. Or, more typically, further processing via 'focus stacking' is required. This process cannot be done in-camera and probably most of us would not want to wait while our cameras did this task.

There are a number of software applications that support focus stacking, including very popular Adobe products, but focus stacking is now included in Canon Digital Photo Professional's composite tool. Initially introduced in version 4.10 with support for the Canon EOS R, EOS RP, and EOS 5D Mark IV, the DPP compositing tool comes highly recommended, especially for some of its processing features including the ability to adjust the amount of background blur in a final stacked result. DPP creates a folder in the same folder the stacked result (JPG or TIF format) is being written to. Binary files are stored in this folder including a large file for each image used in the stack along with a data file. These files are required for the adjustment functionality and can be deleted after the image is finished.

Canon's DPP software is provided free with Canon EOS cameras (I use DPP a lot).

Canon's Focus Stacking is Really Easy

The Christmas cactus that spends most of the year looking rather mundane, essentially green foliage in a pot, finally opened a single bloom. These blooms last only a couple of days, they are irresistibly-beautiful, and I decided that testing the EOS RP's focus stacking feature was a good excuse to photograph this one.

For this first focus bracketing and stacking attempt, I mounted a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro Lens to the EOS RP via an Adapter and mounted both on a tripod. It was a cloudy day, so I positioned the flower in diffused ambient light with a bright wall behind it.

The 100mm f/2.8L IS macro lens, like many others, has a significant amount of focus breathing with the subject being magnified very differently at the ends of the necessary focus adjustment range. The final focus stack image framing will be the same as the most-tightly-framed image in the stack (and retains the original pixel dimensions) and thus the composition was adjusted for the tightest framing.

The ambient light was not changing much and that means a manual exposure is usually ideal. With the end goal of focus stacking being to have tremendous depth of field, it makes sense to use a narrow aperture and f/11 is a nice compromise between a good amount of depth of field and the softening effects of diffraction. ISO 100 was selected for the lowest amount of noise possible and a couple of test shots proved that a 0.5 second shutter speed yielded the correct brightness. Note that testing exposure before initiating a focus bracketing sequence is important – 50 or 900 images are not necessary for this. The 2-second self-timer was used to initiate the relatively long captures.

With the camera in AF mode, the closest focus distance required by the stack needs to be selected at the beginning of the capture. I opted to place one of the camera's single (spot) AF points on the closest part of the flower. Alternatively, The focus distance could have been adjusted after half-pressing the shutter release (or setting only the back AF-button for AF). I enabled focus bracketing, guessed that I would need 25 images, guessed that '4' sounded like a good focus increment number and figured that exposure smoothing would minimally do no harm in this case.

Focus Stacking With The Canon 5DS R: Canon EOS-1D / 5D / 6D ..

Upon the shutter release being pressed, the camera paused 2 seconds and then captured the promised number of frames. When the bracketing was completed, the lens' focus distance was beyond everything I wanted to be in focus, confirming that enough exposures were captured.

Upon reviewing the images in DPP, I discovered that only 14 were needed for complete depth of field coverage in this example. After selecting those 14 images, the depth compositing tool was selected (Alt+Shift+B) and the Execute button was pressed, accepting the defaults. After quickly erasing the background using the paint fill tool in Photoshop and doing some very minor cleanup, the result is what you see here.

In the above examples, the first row shows full images reduced in size. The second row shows significantly-cropped images that better show the depth of field comparison. The last two rows show 100% crops.

This was a very easy process and the result looks great.

Cached

Also check out the Canon EOS R5 Focus Stacking at the Somesville Bridge and Selectmen's Building example. Again, the process was easy, and the results are superb.

Thanks, Rudy!

Canon 750d Focus Stacking Instructions

A big 'Thanks!' goes out to Canon USA's Rudy Winston for significant assistance in putting this article together. The quotes included above are his.

When I first started using a digital SLR camera, one of the most frustrating problems I often came across, was when my DSLR lens wouldn’t focus properly. Instead, it would constantly move in and out, not stopping to focus on any particular object. Over time, I noticed a pattern to this annoying problem. Listed below are numerous reasons for your lens auto focus to fail.

Reasons why autofocus won’t always work on a digital SLR camera?

• The first thing to check when your camera’s auto focus fails, is that you have your DSLR lens set on AF (auto focus) and not MF (Manual Focus). This may seem obvious, however there have been many times when I’ve used manual focus and forgot to change it back to auto focus when required. If you are able to switch between AF and MF, you will find the switch for this on the side of your actual lens.
• Auto focus may have trouble working properly in low light conditions. For example night shots.
• Many photographers find auto focus fails when photographing non contrasting subjects. For example, a cloudless blue sky or a wall that contains one solid color.
• Photographing highly repetitive patterns like skyscraper windows or cars with reflective bodies can also cause problems.
• Personally I find my lens sometimes has trouble auto focusing if I’m taking macro shots and the insect or flower is constantly moving. I’ve been assured by other photographers that this is normal.
• Focusing on overlapping objects can also confuse your lens. For example, if you are trying to focus on the horizon, or say an animal in a cage. Times like these can make it hard for your lens to clearly know what it is you are trying to focus on.
• Sometimes auto focus AF may not be possible if you have an Extender attached to your lens. Check your Extender’s instruction manual for lens compatibility. Any other lens add-on’s like magnification and closeup filters can also cause problems.

What to do when your DSLR lens auto focus AF won’t work?

• Sometimes it’s just a matter of focusing on something different. For example, in landscape photography (where you want everything sharp) it usually doesn’t matter if you set your main focus on the horizon, or the tree you see in the distance.
• Try focusing on an object within the same distance as the subject you are photographing. Then switch the lens to manual focus MF, recompose and take the shot.
• An alternative to using manual focus mentioned in the solution above, is to focus on an object within the same distance then use your camera’s ‘focus lock’ setting (check manual). Personally, I find it easier to simply switch the AF setting on the side of the lens to MF. Don’t forget to change it back again for your next shot.
• There are times when your only option may be to use manual focusing.

Photography Assignment – Grab your DSLR camera and give this a try

Stream xbox to macbook pro. It’s important to practice alternatives to auto focusing, for times when your lens AF setting isn’t co-operating.

More Images For Canon 750d Focus Stacking »

Assignment: A lesson in auto focusing and alternatives

1. Attach an all purpose lens to your camera. Make sure you choose a lens that has an AF / MF switch on the side. Set the lens to AF (auto focus) to begin with.
2. For this example, change your camera’s ‘AF Point Selection‘ (Canon) or ‘Focus Area Selection‘ (Nikon), so the middle focal point is the main focus. If you’re not sure how to do this, refer to your camera’s manual.To check if you’ve set this correctly, turn your camera’s mode dial to P (for program). Look through your viewfinder and focus on an object by pressing the shutter button half way down. You should see only the middle focal point light up. If more than one focal point lights up, or a different point other than the middle one, repeat this step.The image below is an example of a middle AF point selection, as seen through a Canon 400D. Depending on your camera brand and model, you may see more or less focal points. However many you see, make sure only the middle point is lighting up whenever you focus on an object.
3. At this point you should have your camera dial set to P and your lens focus switch set on AF for autofocus. Aim your camera towards an object and press the shutter button half way down. When you see the middle focal point light up or blink, take the shot. You have now taken a photograph with auto focus turned on.
4. Lets pretend for this example, that your camera had trouble focusing on the object you wanted to photograph. Look through your viewfinder and focus on an object within the same distance to the one you want to photograph. Now turn your lens AF switch to MF for manual focus. Aim your camera back to the object you want to photograph and take the shot. The difference being, this time no focal point will light up or blink. However, the image quality should be very similar to the first photograph you took in step 3. You have now taken a photograph with AF auto focus turned off.

Images For Canon 750d Focus Stacking

The next time your camera has trouble autofocusing, you now know how to solve the problem.

Canon EOS 90D: Mit Der Focus-Bracketing / Fokus-Bracketing ..